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Using this tape, I build a circuit that illuminates up to four LED lights, which I use to illuminate the handmade pop-up cards. I've always wanted my cards to glow when they're opened, but I knew soldering would be involved and would be challenging. I had to give copper tape a try after learning about its potential. How simple it is to use is astounding. Using a CR2032 coin battery, the tape conducts enough power to light up 4 mm LED lights and adheres incredibly effectively to paper. Building a circuit that activates one light when the card is opened is quite simple. The wiring gets more complex the more lights you add, but depending on the size and color you choose, a CR2032 battery can run up to 4 LED lights. This copper tape comes in rolls that will make circuits for at least twenty cards, but I wasted a lot of tape figuring out how to utilize it. The second roll is good to have, but I didn't even need to use it. I used it to decorate my cards as well because it adhered to paper so wonderfully. The bright metal was striking and re

I've been using this kind of film for about 25 years now—back when it was only available from industrial suppliers in boxes containing hundreds of feet of film—and I've encountered every issue mentioned above. A few pointers I've learned throughout the years There is a half-life to the film. Purchase no more than you intend to use in a year. Get another roll if you notice voids in your copper and are unable to resolve the issue. Print TWO copies of the negative on transparencies and stack them if you print it with a laser printer. To maintain the images' alignment and togetherness, apply a single stripe of rubber cement at one end of each image. It has never occurred to me that a printer can provide adequate density with just one copy. When pads and traces touch one other no matter how long you etch, or when you obtain difficult-to-etch shadows on your boards, it's a sign that your mask is too thin. Hold the sliced piece of film (coil up) with one edge on a hard surface. Then, take a single-edged razor blade and hold the blade vertically to remove the first plastic.

To get this to work, a lot of trial and error is required. These are some pointers: Squeegee the two layers of transparency film from the inkjet printer onto the wet PCB board, being cautious to ensure that there are no gray regions or areas of inadequate contact. This state cannot be fixed; you must clean the PCB and begin again. You have 5 million of the thing, after all! Heat the board to 140°F. Ensure that everything is level; a crisp image requires flawless contact between the transparency and the film. Use a 12-inch UV flashlight for six minutes. To easily remove the top layer of protective film, wash in cold water. During the development process, don't be afraid to brush the film with a gentle toothbrush. Properly exposed film won't be bothered by the brush. Ensure that all of the unexposed film is gone. It feels slimy, so you can tell whether any is left.